I've been gone the last week on a convoluted road trip to follow Widespread Panic for 4 shows on a run that took me to Taos and ended up at Red Rocks. I'd be picking up a friend in Alburquerque from a flight from DC, another friend in Denver on a flight from Memphis, and a third friend who was in Denver with family. In the end, we'd all endure hardship; no one would be disappointed.
I've since come to realize that road trips are sometimes like bikepack trips; epiclly so sometimes with incredible highs, and sobering lows. This trip would not be the exception as things got difficult before I even passed Holbrook. My friends flight was first late, then the risk of a missed connection presented itself from Minneapolis to Alburquerque, then a lost wallet. After contemplating the thought of turning around and bailing on the weekend, he decided to forge forward with no ID and no mode of payment.....Widespread Panic would fix everything.
After this bit of drama, I pondered the craziness of it all as I hurtled down the razor straight stretch of I-40 that pierces the void between nothing and Albuquerque. As in bikepacking, you always find yourself in sketchy gas stations clinging to the edge of nothingness, pondering which burrito is the good one....
....but you often times wind up eating the safe bet.
The speeds are a bit faster and the effort less........
.....but you still manage to find the beer.
After taking BrianC's recommendation to enjoy a nice beer or three at Kellys Brew-Pub south of the University.....I stretched the legs a bit while waiting from my friends flight.....
As I walked through Nob Hill, exploring the side streets and alleyways, I was reminded that the journey is part of the destination....flight delay's be damned.....we're going to see Panic tonight...and that made me smile.....
But a foreboding scene presented itself......In hindsight, I wish it said "Don't eat the Pizza".....
Still, I was happy to explore a side of Albuquerque that I'd neglected to appreciate....murals & signs....
Some left me wondering where the art ended and the nature began.....
Others announced their purpose with clarity.......
....and still others left me wondering.....what could you have more than masks?
After picking up Jay from the airport, we marched on to Taos battling traffic. We'd get to the hotel in time to get to the show...but no time to hang out and watch the scene. Upon entering the venue...we were amazed....this would be a special show. A very small venue in combination with a freaky scene never before seen at a Panic show lent an atmosphere that was more like a String Cheese show...but the set list was pure Panic. A hard driving show from start to end left us wondering what they had in store for us at Red Rocks.
Waking in the morning, we sought some breakfast, Taos style. After asking a very large man at the gas station who appeared to know something about food, we were pointed to Michaels Kitchen.....it was very good.....very good.
Before leaving New Mexico, I steered the beast to the Taos Pueblo to continue my exploration of my new camera. The newest building in the Pueblo is the church....it's only 150 years old......the old one was destroyed by the Spaniards.......take that DHS.......
When you compare the new church to the rest of the Pueblo which is about 1,000 years old.....
....you start to talk softer and walk in reflection.....
Red Willow creek whispers a song if you care to sit and listen.....
The original church's bell tower stands watch over the graveyard......
....and Wheeler peak stands watch over it all.....this is when I started missing my bike even more....
Continuing north from the Pueblo to Colorado, we crossed the Rio Grande Gorge which splits the Taos Plateau in half........
As I dangled my arms and camera over the railing, I observed the lower world of darkness and light, dry and wet.
Later in the day, after crossing into Colorado we made a short detour into Salida to stop off at Absolute Bikes in the hopes of catching a few of the Tour Divide riders. I found Ben Oney eating in the cafe. Not wanting to get between a Divide rider and his food....I restrained myself and just oogled his ride.....
The rest of the day saw us endure yet another mechanical on the vehicle....this time, warning lights and a VERY annoying error beep. We drove for 2 hours into Denver with that beep, at times pulling fuses in route to try to kill the noise, but to no avail. We then proceeded to paint the town red at Sancho's Broken Arrow and eat a sketchy pizza in hopes of deleting the beeping in our heads. I highly recommended Sancho's.....it's awesome....but I want to warn you: The ladies restroom does NOT have urinals.......
The next morning, we took the car into the dealership to fix the problem, hopefully before friend #2 was to show up at DIA...but not before we both experienced violent, nauseous waves of pain in our stomachs. Given both of our iron constitutions, Food Poisoning was the obvious answer with the sketchy pizza to blame. To further twist the knife into the wound created by an $800 car repair bill and puking....friend #2 texted me to say his flight was cancelled and he'd miss the 1st red rocks show.....the hits keep on rolling.
After this....we just wanted to go listen to some music and chill. So we picked the north lot at Red Rocks, known for it's calm vibe and easy walk up to the venue.
Upon entering, we were alerted to an unauthorized deer trying to park.....
If you've never been to Red Rocks Amphitheater, you're missing out on the best natural amphitheater....period........
Alerting friend #3 to friend #2's extra ticket, I was directed to sell it to friend #3's nieces friend. Do not get between these gals and a ticket to the show.....I saw them hustle up and down for extra tickets all weekend, to much success......they will not be stopped......
I attribute it to the boots.......
The rest of the night was spent enjoying a rather mellow show. The first set was solid, but the second set left us scratching our heads with it's laid back vibe.........what are these boy's going to do to us tomorrow?
After a good nights rest....and no more sickness, mechanicals or flight problems...we picked up Justin from DIA and headed out early to the upper South Lot....that's where the Red Rocks scene get's it "aura"....you just set up, and watch the parade go by.....
Colors and smells abound......
Kind people present themselves......
Neighbors drive their homes in......
.....and set up shop.
Occasionally, you look up at the venue which has yet to open......
.....but it's short lived since the real show happens here before the gates open...you just have to keep your eyes open.......
.....and look up at the changing business paradigm........
Walking around brings more sights....."Jack Straw from Wichita, shot his buddy down".....
Conversations with kind people just looking to score a ticket get animated......
Some choose to hustle actively, shaking their money maker.....others try a new tact like these dudes trying to call anyone who might have a ticket....and one lone person, still looking for a miracle.....
Outside the encampment, the constant stream of sensory precursors becomes the norm.....Everyone's looking for a miracle......
...and that came in the 2nd set of the 2nd night....with thunderheads rolling off of the front range above us and out towards the Great Plains; they lit up the night sky with occasional cloud to cloud flashes. The music came at us like a galloping heard of American Bison running from the onrush of civilization, towards the last bastion of wildness.....the redoubt of the west....the rockies.
With a set that could best be described as a "thundering herd"......we all wondered.....if this was tonight...what will tomorrow bring?
The final show at Red Rocks came with the gal's still hustling for a ticket late into the hour before the show. They took off in a cab, paid for by friend #3 as the hour was getting late. The plan was for them to ride up and down the various parking lots to find something. As the minutes passed, we got anxious.....plans were made to ditch the ladies and the car was packed. Then at 4:20, 10 minutes before we were going to bail on them and their gear in my vehicle (I'm dead serious, that was the time), the ladies appeared out of breath, sweating profusely after force marching themselves up the 'back-country' of the venue to reach the upper lots from the lower lots....they had tickets and the rays pierced from beyond a veil of thunderheads.
The third night at Red Rocks can only be described as EPIC. The first set was no-covers....the second set, all-covers. They also played 4 songs which in the last 25 years, have been played less than 4 times each....one of which, has never been played. Given that Panic is not going to play for the next several years.....this is going to be the set that folks talk about well into 2014......
As much trouble that this trip brought me, it's only the good times which remain. I'm certain, that just as on the bike.....the good times, memories and scenes would not be as good if it were not for the, at times, heinous obstacles that had to be overcome by everyone involved. Many thanks to the good friends that made this possible. Jay, Justin and Scott......I'll see you again at Red Rocks......
